Rome Wasn’t Built in a Day

Planning a trip to Rome? Find a five-day itinerary here!

Late September 2023 

This trip was long overdue, as I'd been yearning to return to Europe ever since I left 19 years ago. My sights were set on Italy, a country that had firmly nestled itself in my heart after a road trip with our three young children from Hungary to Sicily. Every time I allowed myself a moment to wanderlust, images of gelato in the piazza, pizza overlooking the sea, and the fresh fish pasta in Catania would materialize before me. Mind you, we did not have a lot of time for sightseeing with three young children, but rather went from gelato to pizza and back again, but we absorbed the earth and sea, and I’ve carried it with me through the years. 

Through a series of fortunate events, I ended up spending a whole month in Rome after finding an affordable apartment down south—a graduation gift to myself for finally earning my bachelor's degree at 50 years of age. Armed with some research and no real agenda beyond exploring the city, I landed, found myself in a very “warm” apartment with no central air, and laced up my walking shoes. 

I've titled this blog, "Rome Wasn’t Built in a Day" because, truth be told, it took me a little while to warm up to it. Initially overwhelmed by its size and grappling with the many layers of tourists, I soon became fascinated by the many layers of history. From its Greek influence to the rise of the Roman Empire, through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, to the Italian unification in 1871, and through the fascist era. Each era having left its mark on a city so complex I don't believe we will ever uncover all its history. 

With time, I discovered a functioning ecosystem, filled with microcosms, each playing their essential role in creating a vibrant city. For your sake, I will condense the highlights into a five-day trip to Rome. 

My time in Rome involved relying on public transport and traversing the streets on foot, covering a substantial 8 miles a day, give or take. This allowed me ample time to explore the back roads as well as the well-trodden paths, and when buses didn't arrive, to make my way home on foot, even if it took a couple of hours. My phone GPS was a salvation, though I probably spent more time looking down than looking out. On occasion, I used the FREENOW taxi app which was sometimes a godsend and other times a source of frustration. (I’ll explain more about this in the notes.) 

My aim is to condense my favorite spots into a 5-day itinerary, giving you the best bits and sparing you from the worst. Giving you more time for looking up and out. 

Rome in 5 days 

DAY 1: Trastevere, a First Look, and a Market with too many choices. 

Awake in your quaint hotel, La Clarisse a Trastevere, and step into its petite courtyard garden. Enjoy a cappuccino and a buffet breakfast next to the lemon trees or take a short walk to Elisa Gelateria, just a block over from the hotel, for mouthwatering pastries and frothy coffee.

(If you are looking for a more economical place to stay, there is a hostel nestled in the heart of Trastevere with a view of the Tiber that I would recommend: Borgo Ripa by Hostel Trastevere.)

Take some time to explore the charming, lively neighborhood of Trastevere located on the West bank of the Tiber River where you will meet tourists and locals alike enjoying the bohemian vibe and medieval architecture. 

You find yourself in the ideal setting—a vibrant and artistic community that truly comes alive in the evenings, creating a lively and social atmosphere. Within walking distance from many main attractions, you can easily explore the city by day. Yet, come nightfall, you have the luxury of retreating to the serene nest of your hotel, where the tranquility allows you to hardly notice the hustle and bustle beyond its walls. When I return to Rome, I will stay here again.

Bring an easy-to-carry water bottle as there are fountains all over Rome.

Head towards the Giardino degli Aranci, (Orange Gardens), about a 20-minute walk from your hotel. You will cross over the Tiber and climb some stairs to enjoy the stunning views of the city from a park located on Aventine Hill and lined with orange trees.

This park was my refuge on several occasions when I needed to escape the crowds and find some space. (If you cross over the Ponte Fabricio bridge, it will add a few minutes to your walk, however you will get to enjoy Isola Tiberina, a tiny island in the middle of the Tiber.) 

Continue down Aventine Hill through the enchanting cobblestone streets making your way to the bustling Testaccio Market, a 17-minute walk away.

This market, brimming with local produce, cured meats, classic Roman cheeses, and an array of delicacies, is where you can enjoy true Roman culinary traditions. Indulge in a porchetta sandwich, or focaccia bread topped with fresh ricotta and zucchini flowers. Enjoy a glass of wine, or even a wine tasting, and pick up some treats for later. (I also found two beautiful silk dresses at one of the kiosks.)

My favorite Linzer-style treat! Chewy, nutty, and fruity!

The dress I purchased at the market and later wore in Capri!

On your way out, stop for a quick look at Monte Testaccio, a hill composed entirely of the fragments of ancient Roman pots used for transporting goods to this “port” area of Rome. It is a fascinating landmark often described as a well-preserved, 2000-year-old, “garbage heap.” 

Head back home for a nap or venture on to Teatro Marcello and the Jewish Quarter. This will take you on a lovely 30-minute walk along the Tiber River shaded by the sycamore trees.

View from below the street. This gorgeous and peaceful walk along the river is another hidden pearl. Hidden in plan sight.

These two areas are adjacent so you can enjoy what looks like a mini-colosseum style ancient Roman open-air theater, and then move on to a neighborhood with a rich and complex history. What was once a walled-off area where the city’s Jewish population was required to live is now a vibrant community. For dinner, enjoy Roman-Jewish cuisine along a cobblestone walking street lined with traditional eateries. 

DAY 2: A Scout's Day with a Hidden Pearl (“Gem” is overused!) 

Today is an overview of some of the famous sites such as the Trevi Fountain, Roman Forum, Colosseum, and the Pantheon. I will preface this by saying if you would like to go into the Colosseum or Pantheon it is advisable to purchase tickets in advance, if they are even available. However, I found it enjoyable to experience these sights from the outside as well, and by doing this you can circle through most of them in one day. (If you desire a comprehensive tour of the most popular sites in Rome, I would recommend taking the 'Rome in a Day Tour' with Walks of Italy. We skipped all the lines and even made it through the Vatican. Our guide was kind, professional, and incredibly knowledgeable. Be prepared for a lot of walking.)

After breakfast, head to the Trevi Fountain which is a 30-minute walk from your hotel. I suggest making this your first stop as it gets busier as the day goes on. If you head out early enough you may get a chance to enjoy it without too much jostling. After viewing Oceanus riding his chariot flanked by sea horses and Tritons and filling your water bottle with natural spring water from the famous Roman aqueducts, make sure to toss in a coin to ensure your return to Rome. Toss a second if you are in search of true love, and a third if you’ve found love and would like to secure a marriage. Or perhaps just throw in all three at once for good measure.

From here it is a 20-minute walk to the Colosseum. Follow the crowds; there’s lots to see along the way. First, the Roman Forum, which served as the heart of the city’s political, religious, and commercial life during the Roman Republic and the Roman Empire. If you keep to the right of Via dei Fori Imperiali as you approach the Colosseum, you can climb up Capitoline Hill to the Campidoglio piazza designed by Michelangelo. Along the way you’ll get a bird's eye view of the Forum and surrounding area. 

Circle around the Colosseum and head to the left for a lunch break at Hostaria I Clementi which is right next to one of my favorite “pearls,” Basilica di San Clemente.

Eggplant Parm at i Celementi!

What makes this church so fascinating are the archaeological layers that reveal different periods of Roman history. It’s a church built on top of a 4th-century church, which is built on top of a first-century AD Roman home. You can explore each of the layers as you move deeper underground. It closes from noon to 2 pm, so it’s a great place to visit after lunch.

If you have time to spare while you wait for it to open, head a couple of blocks over to the Parco del Colle Oppio e delle Terme di Traiano where you can get a great view of the Colosseum and escape the crowds to catch your breath. I found myself often seeking out these parks which served as a perfect respite away from the throngs. 

At this point you may be done for the day, or you may want to head back for a little siesta and then out again. If you have any juice left, I suggest the Pantheon and Piazza Navona and dinner at Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922, next to Campo de Fiori. This restaurant, built atop an ancient Roman theater, serves up the most delicious fried zucchini flowers with Ricotta cheese and anchovies and Roman-style fried artichokes.

Piazza Navona is only a couple of blocks from the Pantheon. (Remember to purchase those tickets in advance for the Pantheon or you will be standing in a long line.)

Piazza Navona! Filled with baroque fountains and shapely, naked men.

If I had to choose one of the popular sights to return to or recommend to others, it would be to visit the ancient temple, the Pantheon. The magic comes when you step towards the center and look up through the oculus, as if connecting with centuries of history. I marveled at the architectural brilliance the of the concrete dome, which from what I understand, still remains a bit of a mystery.

If you're ready for a break, the piazza in front of the Pantheon is a great place to people watch. Enjoy an aperitivo and an Aperol spritz.

And then head to the restaurant which is in the direction of your hotel. After some authenic Roman cuisine, a short 17-minute walk will get you home. 

This will be a long day. Sweet dreams! 

DAY 3: A Retreat Fit for the Pope, A Volcanic Lake, and a Smooth Train Ride 

Today, we escape the city. 

Castel Gandolfo overlooking Lake Albano is a true pearl, just 15 miles Southeast of Rome; it’s about an hour train ride from Roma Termini and a great way to break away from the masses. If this is a favorite retreat for Popes seeking respite, I feel that we should retreat here as well. Although I did not make it to visit the beautiful gardens of the summer Papal Palace, which were closed when I was there, visiting the town and then walking down to the lake, made for the perfect day. (Get the Trainline app for quick access to train schedules.)

When you arrive at the Castel Gandolfo station you will need to climb a bit of a hill (tapered hill) up the main Piazza della Liberta, but it will be well worth your climb as the views of the placid lake and surrounding hills are breathtaking and the town offers delicious culinary delights and a quaint atmosphere.

Sundried Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella Salad on the main walking street.

The shops showcase local artisans so there are plenty of interesting nooks to explore and even watch the artists as they work. And when you’ve had your fill of the little town, follow the same path back down past the station and down to the lake (or take a bus that you can catch close to the main piazza). 

We visited the lake on a Sunday, so there was an artisan market along the boardwalk. After purchasing some gifts, we grabbed a gelato and hung out by the water. The lake is surrounded by walking and hiking paths, and you can also rent a paddle boat. Lake Albano is a maar, which is a type of volcanic crater that forms through explosive volcanic activity.

The lake's basin was created by the collapse of the volcanic cone during an eruption. 

Don’t forget to check the train schedule when you arrive so you don’t miss the last train back to Rome. Even the ride home is peaceful! 

You’re welcome! ;)

DAY 4: A Walk with the Dead, Marvelous Engineering, and Everlasting Roads 

After a day of fresh air and sunshine, it’s time to go deep — deep into the catacombs. 

There is a network of catacombs that can be visited south of Rome, and I chose the Catacombs of Domitilla. Dating back to the 2nd century AD, these catacombs were originally owned by the Flavian family and later donated for Christian use. Contrary to popular belief, it appears these catacombs were not places for Christians to hide but rather to bury their dead. It’s easy to picture why no one would live in these tunnels once you are three stories underground, in a cold, damp, dark cocoon of a space.

You don’t have to get your tickets in advance, as guided tours are scheduled every 20 minutes or so. I would recommend getting a taxi to this location, as it would be a bit far to walk. It closes from noon to 2 pm. 

Since you are already down South, next, I recommend a trip to Park of the Aqueducts, a testament to the engineering ingenuity of ancient Rome. This is a little further Southeast and a lovely place to stretch your legs and marvel at how we have regressed. If you don’t have a guide, I would advise reading up on Aqua Claudia and the Aqua Marcia, two major aqueducts supplying water to ancient Rome. I was fascinated by how the Romans found the sources for their aqueducts from natural springs, rivers, and lakes. 

As you head back to Rome, stop by the Tombs of Via Latina for a short walk along a portion of the original Roman Road, Via Latina, passing ancient Roman tombs and mausoleums along the way. This road starts from the Roman Forum and extends southwards towards the Alban Hills. As I stepped from stone to stone, I thought of all the people who had traversed this ancient path centuries ago, leaving behind a legacy etched in the very stones beneath my feet. I could see the groves made by Roman chariots.

(Tour suggestion: Hidden Gems and Ancient Wonders)

DAY 5: A Roman Park and a Fountain with a View, or Last Looks 

This is your last day, so you may want to squeeze in those places you’ve missed or just relax and take a moment to absorb all that you’ve seen.

I suggest taking a stroll through Parco del Gianicolo that gradually ascends to the summit of Janiculum Hill. The park is approximately a 20-minute walk northwest from your hotel. As you traverse the park, the landscape gently crescendos, leading you to the pinnacle of the hill where you'll be welcomed by an awe-inspiring panoramic view of Rome.

Upon exiting the garden at the top of the hill, you'll discover the magnificent Fontanone dell'Acqua Paola, an inviting fountain intricately linked to the Acqua Paola aqueduct. Take a moment to catch your breath and savor the surroundings. 

For your afternoon, take one last lingering look at any of your favorite spots, perhaps from the Orange Gardens, or a café next to your favorite piazza. If you save the places you’ve visited as 'favorites' in Google Maps, it will be easy for you to return to your destination of choice. 

Five days go fast when there’s so much to see, so take it all in, and remember, you threw the coin into the fountain, so you will be coming back. 

Other places to visit: 

Vatican & St. Peter's Square: I haven't touched upon the Vatican, a pivotal destination. I explored it through a guided tour that enabled us to bypass the lines, although the sheer crowds made forward movement challenging.

However, the highlight for me was the time spent in St. Peter’s Square. The vastness of the square had a humbling effect, making me feel small in the most positive sense. In that expansive space, my concerns seemed to diminish, putting them into a more manageable perspective. 

Porta Portese: If you're there on a Sunday, don’t miss Porta Portese. Dating back to the 1940s, this Sunday flea market is packed with everything from antique telephones to secondhand purses, vintage linens, cheap clothes, well-read books, and collectibles. This market is bustling, so hang on to your hat and put those valuables away in a safe place. (It’s a short 12-minute walk from your hotel.) 

Villa Borghese Gardens: Villa Borghese Gardens is a large public park in the heart of Rome (Northeast of Trastevere). It covers a vast area with lush greenery, walking paths, ponds, and various attractions. Visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll, rent bikes, or simply relax amidst the beautiful landscape. Borghese Gallery (Galleria Borghese), is an art museum housed within the Villa Borghese. It is renowned for its impressive collection of sculptures and paintings, especially from the Italian Renaissance period. (Puchase tickets in advance. I visited this park twice, but never made it into the Gallery I didn't want to wait in line. There is also a nice cafe next to the Gallery.)

Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius: Pompeii is only about 150 miles southeast of Rome, so it makes for a nice day trip if you end up staying in Rome a little longer. I took the 'Pompeii with Panoramic Winery Lunch on Vesuvius: Day Trip from Rome' tour with Walks of Italy, and it was a great experience. After a guided tour of Pompeii, we enjoyed lunch and a wine tasting on Mount Vesuvius, then took in a panoramic view of the volcano as we sipped limoncello.

Notes: (Details coming soon!)

• Bus Ticket Incident:

• Learn how and where to purchase tickets and about fines associated with bus travel.

• Save Favorites in Google Maps:

• Easily reference your preferred locations by saving them in Google Maps.

• Bring a Water Bottle:

• Enjoy fresh spring water from fountains scattered all over Rome.

• FreeNow App: Burden and Blessing:

• Discover the benefits and potential challenges of using the FreeNow App for transportation.

• Store Your Luggage:

• A great way to lighten your load for day trips and beyond.

Credits:

Credit where credit is due—many of the great shots included in this blog were captured by my sister, Summer Spain. And a big thanks also goes to my partner, Kevin Harrod, for making these trips possible.