Four Days in Capri-Sails, Seascapes & Lemon Kisses

October, 2023

As I sat at home in Birmingham, Alabama, I looked longingly at the seascapes surrounding the island of Capri, just off the Amalfi Coast. Initially, my plan was a simple day trip from Positano to Capri, but a recurring sentiment echoed in my research: “You can’t truly absorb the beauty and richness of Capri in a day; you have to spend a few days here!” “What if I switch plans,” I thought, “and stay on Capri, exploring the Amalfi coast from there.” I am elated I made the switch as Capri revealed its natural grandeur once we ventured beyond the day tripper sites. Attempting to condense it all into a single day would have been a disservice and I would have missed those moments that come only when we give ourselves time to linger. When the itinerary is done, and we are free to discover and become “unhinged.” Four days on this enchanting island turned out to be absolutely perfect...though, truth be told, I could have easily stayed longer!  

October 7- from ROME 

Discovering Paradise: Majestic Vistas, Hills to Climb, and a Taste of the Sea

Our journey to Capri kicked off with a ride on the rails and a breezy ferry voyage. The Rome-Napoli train ride was a swift hour plus, setting me back around 50 euros for standard or 70 euros for the first-class experience. I secured train tickets via the Trainline app the day prior. There was plenty of room for luggage overhead, and additional space near the carriage entrance for larger bags. Trains commute from Rome to Napoli every 15 minutes during peak hours, so no need to fret if you miss one. Plus, ticket exchanges are free. Just a tip: hold off arriving too early at the train station. You might find yourself unnecessarily transfixed to the information board, as the platform of your departure is typically posted only 10 to 15 minutes before.

Beverello, Naples' bustling port, is a quick taxi ride from Napoli station. The Ferryhopper app gave me an overview of ferry departure times, but I opted for an on-site ticket purchase in case of any travel delays.

Capri-bound, the ferry cruise lasted a little over an hour. As we hustled towards the taxi line after arriving in Marina Grande, we noticed that taxis were scarce, and the line was getting longer by the minute. I started messaging (using WhatsApp), Antonio, our wonderful AirBnB host, who set us up for a 30-euro ride from the main (big) port to Marina Piccola, (little marina), nestled on the island's southern shore. A short drive, but I would not recommend trying it on foot - it's a world of ups and downs, (mostly up), not for the faint-hearted, especially with luggage in tow! 

Antonio welcomed us to our AirBnB, a cozy one-bedroom condo etched into a hill. (As are most the dwellings in Capri.) A sprawling patio that included a lemon tree with giant lemons shaded by wild grape vines, treated us to awe-inspiring views of Marina Piccola and the iconic Faraglioni rocks. Sunrise spectacles over the sea became my daily ritual. Sometimes misty, sometimes clear, but always a feast for the eyes and the soul. I stopped sleeping in.  

Just a five-minute descent from our abode, we discovered a rocky beach nestled amidst a cluster of inviting restaurants and beach clubs. Antonio handed us his guide to island insights, must-try eateries and hidden gems. He even extended the offer of grocery delivery, a thoughtful touch when all island travel involves an uphill climb! 

Heading up to Capri city from our condo.

Post-viewing bliss, we descended to Marina Piccola for a sea kissed lunch at Lo Scoglio Delle Sirene. A tad on the pricey side, but the view and ambiance were worth every cent.

We initiated our Capri palate with a Caprese salad, the island's namesake, followed by local seafood.

Invigorated, we made the ten-minute walk from our condo up to downtown Capri, where we meandered through bustling streets passing fashion boutiques and luxury goods stores. There are some artisanal craft stores in the mix; however, we found Anacapri to be a better location for gifts and mementos. Getting around the city of Capri can be a bit tight, especially with the influx of day trippers. Despite the crowd, we found ourselves determined to press on until we reached the Gardens of Augustus.

Though petite in size, the garden's real showstopper was the breathtaking panorama it offers.

Keep strolling past the Gardens, and you'll find yourself on Via Krupp, a footpath steeped in history. Commissioned by the illustrious Mr. Krupp, it winds down the island's flank, culminating in Marina Piccola. And lo and behold, a mere skip and a hop from our condo! Closed for years due to falling rocks, the path recently underwent a revamp, securing the cliffs and offering a renewed adventure. My advice? Descend, don't climb – it’s easier to take in the views while expending less energy!

October 8 

Breezy Bliss, Soothing Swims, and Three Hours of Eye Candy!

Day two brought an intoxicating three-hour cruise around the island (€290), a plan seamlessly executed with the help of our man, Antonio. We sat, stood, laid, swam, but could not take our eyes off magnificent cliffs jutting out of the crystal blue waters. We were told that three hours would grant us ample time to explore the famed Blue Grotto, a must-see on our list. However, upon arrival, we discovered a flotilla of boats already queued up for their turn. The process involved transferring to a smaller boat for the journey into the Blue Grotto. Seeing the line, we made a quick decision to forego it, having already witnessed several breathtaking caves, leaving us with more time for another invigorating swim. 

The boat tour doesn't exactly circumnavigate the island, but rather crisscrosses between Marina Grande and Marina Piccola. We chose to be picked up from Marina Piccola, a convenient choice just down from our condo. Our journey concluded at Marina Grande, where we bid farewell to our skipper, Antonio (a different one this time), thanking him for this memorable voyage as he proved to be excellent at his craft. (For those interested, the boat company is Capri Damare, which we booked through our host, Antonio, at Luxury Apartments in Capri.). (Towels and drinks were provided! Soft cushions and pillows as well!) 

Thank you, Antonio!

After a ten-minute trek from Marina Grande back up to Capri, a wave of exhaustion and hunger guided us to a restaurant in the bustling Piazzetta di Capri, despite knowing the reputation these spots have as tourist magnets. My salad turned out to be fresh and delightful, and after a glass of house white, I didn’t care much anyway. Following this satisfying interlude, a nap on our patio was in order. 

Later in the day, I secured dinner reservations at Lo Zaffiro Capri, just a couple minutes walk from the center of Capri. I half-expected a packed house given the daytime crowds we navigated through, but to our pleasant surprise, the majority of tourists are day-trippers. This meant the city settled into a quieter evening ambiance, and the restaurant was nearly empty. While it initially raised an eyebrow (quiet restaurants can sometimes be a gamble), the cuisine held its own against any of my favorite fine dining establishments. Opting for an economical approach, we chose one antipasti, one primi, and one secondi to share, and it was more than sufficient. We even unearthed a reasonably priced bottle of wine on the menu, once we maneuvered past the initial pages where prices soared beyond our budget. The final tally for dinner was 178 euros for the two of us, which included a 60 euro bottle of wine.

October 9 

The Other Side of the Island: Anacapri, a Chairlift, and Pumpkin Risotto! 

Today's adventure began with another ascent up the abundance of stairs to Capri. Once there, we located the bus bound for Anacapri and secured our tickets to Piazza Vittoria. We made a beeline for the chairlift up Mount Solaro, taking advantage of the early hour to avoid long lines. Over the next 14 minutes our seated journey offered a progressively more breathtaking view.

A word of advice: Opt for snug footwear and stow your water bottle in a bag for quick embarking and disembarking from the lift chairs. Along the way, we noticed abandoned flip-flops strewn about the lift's path. At the top, a restaurant awaits for those in need of refreshments. (I realize I keep mentioning the view, but that’s what makes Capri so magical—the views! They are all breathtaking and inspire you to climb on as the next “view” is just ahead.) 

Views from the top!

Returning to Piazza Vittoria, we headed towards Chiesa di San Michele stopping at the artisanal craft shops along the way. I have a soft spot for tea towels as gifts; they're practical, lightweight, and don't hog much luggage space. Plus, I like to think the recipient will remember me each time they’re in their kitchen. I found the perfect tea towels at a linen shop, though I wrestled with the choice between lemons and a wren, a voluptuous lemon tree, or three saraghi fish painted in vibrant sea hues. Meanwhile, Kevin ventured off and returned with a mischievous grin. "I've discovered our lunch spot," he announced. To be doubly sure, I asked the shopkeeper about the trattoria next door. "Delizioso! I eat there often," she replied with a huge smile. When the locals endorse it, you know it's a winner.

We turned down a small street and followed a lengthy walkway canopied by grapevines until we stumbled upon the staff engaged in a family meal. The tantalizing aroma wafted through the main dining hall, capturing our attention. Our journey concluded in a charming garden patio, sheltered by an ancient ivy and so secluded that we felt like we'd stumbled upon our own secret garden. Il Solitario Trattoria, a hidden gem. Arrive by noon to beat the crowd and savor a few moments of the enchanting atmosphere all to yourself. Our server managed to secure a serving of the staff's pumpkin risotto, graciously offering it on the house. We followed that with a serving of mussels in a savory tomato broth and creamy scialatielli with local shrimp. I could have whiled away the afternoon in that cozy garden, sipping my local light white, but more adventures beckoned, so we pressed on.  

A mere couple of blocks from the restaurant stood the Chiesa di San Michele, or Chruch of San Michelle, boasting a traditional maiolica tiled floor depicting the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. This experience felt unique as I was used to looking up at frescos, but instead I was looking down at this well-preserved mosaic floor alive with muscled animals, a flowing river, a contemplative Eve, and a fleeing Adam. It’s a tiny wonder, but a worthwhile stop.

We then retraced our steps in the opposite direction, passing through Piazza Vittoria and heading towards Villa San Michele and the Axel Munthe Museum. Munthe's villa houses an impressive collection of ancient art, yet what I found most captivating are the gardens which recently won Italy’s most beautiful private park award. You will find unexpected twists and turns as you wind through intricate pergolas and trellises canopied from the sun and dappled with colorful local flora. There are places to hide, sit and rest, or let your imagination wonder.

You will eventually arrive at the Sphinx Terrace that opens a view of the Tyrrhenian Sea with its pulsing shades of true blue. Read about the Swedish physician and author, Axel Munthe, before your visit to enrich the experience. 

A view from Sphinx Terrace!

Note: While time didn't permit for a dinner with, Holly and Gianluca, I'd like to provide a link to their website as I’ve heard many wonderful things about the 5 course meals and cooking classes they offer. This couple has a wonderful love story and after owning a restaurant on Capri for years, recently began offering a “tasting menu of local dishes cooked in front of you with ingredients straight from the organic onsite vegetable garden combined with a wine tasting in the lush garden of a local villa in Anacapri.” 

October 10

Beach Day, Black Ravioli, Limoncello Kisses, and a Goodbye Dance

Today marked our leisurely finale on Capri, a day gloriously devoid of set plans. Post-packing, we strolled down to a tranquil morning beach, nestling our towels in the shade of a grand rock. Navigating the pebbled shoreline proved an artful dance for our tender tourist feet. (Note to self: water shoes are a must.)

After several hours in the water, the beckoning sign of fresh-baked pizza to our right was irresistible. Lunch became a simple pleasure of pizza and Peroni (22 euros), a pocket-friendly alternative to our initial beachfront feast, yet equally satisfying. 

Our evening unfolded with a final trip through Capri, leading us up the hill along slender lanes flanked by villas, some offering tantalizing peeks into their gardens.

Our intended destination was Villa Jovis, the remnants of a palace commissioned by Tiberius in 27 AD as a summer retreat. We were looking forward to this journey into history, yet, regrettably, we didn't quite make it the full 40 minutes from the center. Although Villa Jovis was a priority on my list, Kev's aching feet demanded attention (a consequence of his attempt at sporting Italian loafer's sans socks, the blisters were vocal about the poor choice). The allure to sit and sip prevailed.

Our first port of call was a hotel bar with outdoor seating, but upon opening the menu, we were taken aback by the staggering 23-30 euro price tag on a glass of wine. We promptly closed the menus and politely excused ourselves in search of something a tad more wallet friendly.

Our foot salve came in the form of Bar Funicolare, which you will find just as you enter Capri city. The place boasted a stunning view of Marina Grande and offered a glass of white wine for a reasonable 9 euros, accompanied by complimentary chips, olives, and tiny tea sandwiches (which they graciously kept replenishing). As I sipped, I researched dinner options, but an hour and a second glass of wine later, my appetite had waned. The evening breeze was crisp, the vista soothing, the wine refreshing, and the snacks satiating. 

View from Bar Funicolare!

I'm delighted we forged ahead, as we stumbled upon a charming spot just next to the Gardens of Augustus, Il Geranio Capri. (Best to make reservations.) How to encapsulate this haven...Picture ascending stone steps and being seated on a garden terrace, gazing out at the sea in the cool night air, the twinkling lights, and the faint hum of laughter from a yacht in the distance. Your server, a maestro of his craft, tends to you with grace. My choice was the black aged ricotta-filled ravioli in monkfish ragu, adorned with fresh wilted tomatoes and drizzled with a luscious broccoli cream. This, my friends, was my best pasta dish ever! (28 euros) And I don't bestow such praise lightly. Although perhaps the ambiance and wine may have clouded my judgment just a touch. It was as though the chef had distilled all of Capri's flavors into a timeless creation bursting with sea, earth, sky, and a hint of lemon. It whispered, "Va tutto bene. We've got you. Relax and enjoy!"

I have not mentioned limoncello until now, which perhaps is a disgrace, but suffice it to say, this wonderful evening concluded with a chilled shot glass of the thick, rich, sweet nectar that burns its way down your throat, in the way that Etta James’ ‘At Last’ tells you that you are coming to the end of a truly great evening.  

Our homeward journey in the cool night felt like a reverie. I cued up some classic tunes on my phone, holding it to my ear as I wove through the narrow streets and descended the hundreds of stairs to our condo. I danced on our patio until fatigue overtook me, finally tumbling into bed. Belly full, mind hazy, heart happy. Good night, Capri! 

October 11 

Addio, Capri, amore mio! 

The dawn came too quickly, and my harp alarm reminded me that we were leaving today. It was misty, kind of like my mood. Final mornings in paradise are hard. We had coffee and some sweets we had bought at a pasticceria on our way home last night: croissants stuffed with fresh fruit puree and nutty Linzer rolls filled with chocolate and hazelnuts. I was still full of the ravioli and copious amounts of wine the night before, but I couldn’t resist.

We like to be early for everything, so at eight I called a taxi to arrive at nine, even though our ferry was at 10, and it only takes a few minutes to get to Marina Grande. (You can’t reserve taxis the day before, but I found them to be very dependable.) The taxi pulled up at 8:58 and insisted we, “Go een, and seet-a,” while he loaded up our bags.

Our condo entrance.

I cried a little as we rounded the last bend into Marina Grande. Getting ferry tickets to Napoli from the booth next to the dock was easy. Not much of a line, 24 euros each, and the ferry at this time in the morning was mostly empty.

If you want to walk on the wild side with plenty of wind and noise, choose to sit on the upper deck when you board the ferry. If you want a better view, quiet, and comfort, choose the lower deck, which is indoor and includes a snack station and restrooms. 

It's easy to find the taxi line as you disembark from the ferry at the Berevello Port in Napoli, and the fare is about 15 euros to Napoli Centrale. We arrived almost an hour early, so we grabbed focaccia panini’s from a place upstairs and packed them away for the 3-hour train ride to Florence. 

Florence, here we come! Addio, Capri, amore mio! 

A huge thanks goes to my partner, Kevin Harrod, for making these trips possible.

Notes (Coming soon!):

Simple dinners on the patio!

We found some lovely Italian linen shirts at shop called Cotton and Colors off Via le Betteghe in Capri city.