Fathoming Florence and a Touch of Tuscany!

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October 11, 2023 - Arriving in Florence 

Enchanting Shadows, An Old Town Apartment, and Gluttony 

It wasn't easy bidding farewell to the enchanting island where sea and sky melded in azure swirls. Yet, as our ferry departed from Capri, the anticipation of Florence's majesty awaited us. 

After a smooth three-hour train ride from Napoli, we arrived at the Santa Maria Novella station and soon found ourselves cocooned in Florence's historical theater, crafted by architects such as Brunelleschi and Michelozzo, and adorned by the genius strokes of Michelangelo, da Vinci, Rafael, and Botticelli. 

The narrow streets and towering historical palaces filtered the afternoon sun, casting long dappled shadows—a striking contrast to the bird's-eye views of Capri. I’ll have to admit, it was a bit of a jolt initially being transferred from Capri to Florence. It was like someone had dimmed the light, or we had been ushered into a play, and it took a moment for our eyes to adjust, but soon the scenes around us came to life in a different but quite enchanting way. 

As we opened the windows of our our second-floor apartment tucked into Old Town Florence, between Duomo—Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and Piazza della Signoria, we had a front-row seat to the enchanting symphony of life unfolding in the heart of this historic city. Florentine parents biked their kids home from school, while delivery trucks squeezed through narrow stone streets, and tourists hardly looked up from their phones as their GPS led them in search of adventure. Church bells tolled, and travelers and locals alike chatted as they sipped espresso and ate panforte at the corner café. The streets were alive and vibrant, channeling the masses drawn by the allure of centuries of creativity. 

Note: If you don't get to see Michelangelo's David becuase the lines are too long, here's your consolation prize. In Piazza della Signoria there is a replica created after the orginal sculpute was moved indoors in 1873.

Courtesy of Summer Spain

Nestled in Tuscany's heart, it's no wonder Dante birthed his Divine Comedy here in 1308. Or that the Medici dynasty drew inspiration to create the Boboli Gardens in the 16th century, and Galileo launched his celestial observations. (Note: If you are interested in science, the Galileo Museum would be a worthwhile stop.) 

For our first dinner, we chose the Mercato Centrale, a short walk from our “palace” apartment. This historic market with a gourmet food hall on the top floor is only a few minutes from the main train station, making it an ideal first stop with its mouthwatering assortment of freshly prepared foods from steak to seafood, street food, finger food, spirits, and sweets! (And the top floor is open till midnight!) Undecided, we grabbed a glass of rose while considering our options. They say “never shop while you’re hungry,” well, we were definitely hungry, as we ended up with a plate piled with fried mixed seafood, a bowl of cacio e pepe, arancini stuffed with spinach and mozzarella, and bruschetta.

The streets were packed and alive with art and music as we made our way back to our apartment. We were in awe of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and the brightly lit carousel in Piazza della Republica.

(If you're willing to stand in a bit of a line, you can climb to the top of that dome and get a birds eye view of the city. There is a separate line to enter the church. Entrance is free.)

We crossed Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence lined with shops once holding butchers and tanners, who used the river as their waste station. Yet due to the stench, were replaced by jewelers who claim these shops to this day. We ventured across and meandered along the Arno River, as our last curtain call of the day. 

Courtesy of Summer Spain

Day 2 - Bread Soup, a Disastrous Flood, and Bistecca alla Fiorentina 

For our first full day in Florence, a walking tour with a local, booked through Airbnb experience, was the perfect ticket. We met our guide, Andrea, at the Basilica of Santa Croce and traveled with him back in time to the tenth century when the textile industry fueled the bankers, who in turn became patrons of the arts. We learned of the flood of 1966 when the Arno River broke its banks and covered parts of the city in 20 feet of sludge and mud, submerging many artistic treasures. Andrea pointed to plaques around the city that marked how far the water rose. 

In Florence, we allowed hunger and location to dictate our eateries, so after bidding goodbye to Andrea, we found a quaint Trattoria Antico on the way home where I tasted Pappa al Pomodoro—Florentine Tomato-Bread Soup for the first time. Florence is famous for its bread soups, but don’t expect a brothy soup with croutons; this soup is more like eating porridge than soup or stew. The upside is that just one bowl of Pappa al Pomodoro can be quite satiating. I’m guessing that was part of its original intent, together with being a good use of stale bread. 

Our afternoon was filled with more food and wine courtesy of Devour Tours. During my month-long stay in Italy, I took six tours with this company, which offers both food and walking tours, and I was impressed with each one. We tasted pecorino Toscano and Tuscan charcuterie paired with Chianti Classico out of a barrel in a back street enoteca (wine bar). We were also introduced to Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a thick-cut T-bone steak, grilled very rare, and served with pride. Legend has it that the name “bistecca” came from English knights yelling with delight “beef steak” after tasting this magnificent Tuscan delicacy. 

Here we were also introduced to the Wine Windows—little openings in the walls which date back to the 1600s when they were used as a safe way to sell food and wine during the bubonic plague. Apparently, COVID had a way of initiating their reopening. There are over 100 wine windows in Florence. I’m not sure if they are all functioning, as we saw many that were framing plaques or used as “cartellos” denoting the house or apartment number. 

Day 3 - Time Travel, Honeybees, and Wonderous Wine 

The day started early as we headed to Piazza della Repubblica just as the city awoke to meet our tour group for an exploration of “Tuscany in a Day,” courtesy, once again, of Devour Tours. 

Our first stop was Michelangelo Square, providing a scenic view of Florence and beyond. As we climbed the hills into Tuscany, I kept thinking what a magnificent hike this would be; however, we were trying to fit in a visit to Siena, San Gimignano, and an agritourism farm, all in a day, so I was grateful for our comfortable minibus. 

Siena felt just like walking through a medieval city enhanced by our tour guide’s tales of bankers’ attempts to prosper, its rivalry with Florence, and the famous, yet dangerous, horse races that take place in the enclosed shell-shaped town square. Because the inside of the city has been hardly touched by new architecture since the Middle Ages, standing in the center square felt like I had found a way to time travel.

This is also where I tasted Panforte, for the first time and wished that I could have found a way to bring some home with me. If not to travel through time, at least to get it across the Atlantic Ocean. This recipe is sure to appear in one of my upcoming food blogs. (Note: Panforte is an Italian confection that reminds me of a mix of a fresh fruit cake and a dark chocolate fudge bar perfectly melded into a dense tort.) 

The next stop was an Italian family farm, Il Vecchio Maneggio. It's a pity that we were only there for a couple of hours, as this farm felt like a home away from home.

We sat family-style on a long wooden table overlooking the Tuscan hills and ate local cuisine while being showered with copious amounts of Chianti and Vernaccia di San Gimignano from the farm’s vineyards. As the wine flowed, so did the laughter. Our antipasti featured their locally produced honey, and we dipped our bread into their freshly pressed olive oil. After lunch I lingered in a hammock until I heard the honk of the tour bus horn. (Note: Check out this farm as they also provide lodging and a variety of experiences.)  

(I brought four pairs of shoes with me for this trip; however, these tennis became my trusted and valued friends. My other shoes hardly saw the light of day once I discovered that comfort and support far surpassed my need to make a style statement.)

On to the architectural beauty of San Gimignano.

Ten hours later, we were home. Home was not a quiet place, but an even exchange for being in the center of the action. It was about three in the morning when the lively group hanging out on the street below our window decided to call it a night, or rather, a new day! Sleep was wakeful, but the bed was soft, and our bodies were tired. Good morning, Florence!

Day 4 – Art Treasure Chest, Best Pizza Ever, and Wondering in a Garden 

Today we set out to see art and natural beauty. We had reserved tickets for 8:30 am at Le Gallerie degli Uffizi—Uffizi Gallery, just as it opened to beat the crowds. It was still busy, but at least we could move about freely most of the time. I was overwhelmed by the sheer volume of art and sculptures and that such an outstanding collection could fit into one building. I have to be honest, towards the end I felt it was all blurring together as there was so much to see, so make sure you give yourself plenty of time. Although I am in no way an art aficionado, I felt that this was an important stop allowing me to partake in human expression through the centuries compressed into a moment of time.  

After a feast for the eyes came a feast for the belly. As we were on our way to the Boboli Gardens, we stumbled upon Le Antiche Carrozze Trattoria, just before the bridge, where I had the best pizza I have ever tasted. This pizza boasted a flawlessly stretchy yet delightfully charred crust. It wasn't soggy but exquisitely moist, brimming with the harmonious flavors of assorted vegetables complemented by a vibrant tomato sauce and luscious buffalo mozzarella. (For all the Napolitano's I will say that I have not yet tried pizza in Napoli. This was the best, so far. ;) 

The last stop of the day was the Boboli Gardens where the majestic European-style garden had its inception. Although I would imagine that these gardens were better kept in their heyday, this is still a worthwhile visit when you consider the history behind it and that the Medici family that ruled Florence for three centuries commissioned it. Wear good walking shoes as this is an expansive park with hills, and most of the paths are made of gravel. The cypress-lined alleys and walkways made me feel like I was in a period piece, so I used my walk through the park as a time to ponder and imagine. 

Courtesy of Summer Spain

(Tip: If you only plan to visit the Boboli Gardens, continue past Pitti Palace, where the main entrance is located. A few blocks down, you'll find a smaller side entrance that is less crowded. Here, you can purchase a ticket and enter directly.)

For our final meal, Kevin had “Bistecca,” of course. I’m not a meat eater so I enjoyed a bowl of Tuscan Ribollita—Vegetable, Bean, and Bread Soup! 

We savored our final morning, indulging in cappuccino at the corner café just below our apartment. Our gracious Airbnb hostess, Elena, went above and beyond, offering to arrange a taxi that promptly arrived to take us to the train station. I must express gratitude to Elena for her exceptional attentiveness and responsiveness throughout our stay. On one occasion, in the early hours, I accidentally tripped the power while using the microwave. Elena responded within seconds, guiding us to locate the power box and restoring it. Her apartment was a charming haven and our “cocoon” amidst the lively spectacle of Florence's theater.

I must return. On to Rome. 

Additional Notes and Summary

After visiting Rome, I was pleasantly surprised by how quick and easy it was to get around Florence on foot. Upon our arrival, we were able to chart a path from the train station, passing many of the popular and historical sites that first afternoon, allowing us to set up our itinerary for the rest of our stay. Please find our route below.

It is also important to note that we were there in October, and there were still long lines for some of the most popular sites, particularly Michelangelo's David and the Uffizi Gallery. So, I would advise getting tickets to these places in advance and visiting them when they first open.

(Please forgive the blurry view. I'm working on this!)

Florentine Cuisine

If I were to summarize Florentine cuisine, I would describe it as simple and minimalistic, allowing fresh ingredients to take center stage. The steak is seasoned only with salt and grilled lightly over an open flame. The bread is made without salt, enabling it to highlight the flavors of the paired food. Additionally, their olive oil and wine can stand on their own. 

Entering Tuscany as a pescatarian, I anticipated challenges in finding dishes I enjoyed, especially after passing restaurants proudly displaying cases of aged steak. However, I discovered comfort in their delightful soups, and the mushrooms were truly magnificent. I relished a pizza loaded with local vegetables, ranking it as the best pizza I've ever tasted. Another pleasant discovery was Vinsanto with biscotti for dipping, served at the end of the meal. I never thought of dipping biscotti in a dessert wine, but I can't think of a better way to conclude a Florentine meal than with this simple and perfectly complementary pairing. 

The Food Hall on the top floor of Mercato Centrale is open from 10 am to midnight; however, the fresh market on the ground floor opens at 7 am and closes at 2 pm. So, if you want to shop for local produce and other delicacies to take home, make sure you get there before 2 pm.

Summary of Locations visited with links: (Coming soon!)